Wanderer's Diary

Devikund and Maiktoli Base Camp Trek

2009-08-12T13:02:00.009+05:30

After our last trip to Gomukh- Tapovan, we were looking for a new destination, to lose ourselves in the unknown once again. After much deliberation, we zeroed in on Pindari and Kafni glaciers that would be a decent 7/8 days trek in the Kumaun region of the mighty Himalayas.

Exactly before a month we were to leave, when all arrangements were made including the tickets, we heard about Devikund and Maiktoli Base Camp in Sunderdhunga region. Though we didn’t have much information on this area as this was a less traversed area, the lure of the unexplored got the better of us wanderers and we changed our travel plans to go to Devikund and Maiktoli Base Camp. For enthusiasts, here is the Trek map to understand the itinerary and the route better.

We reached Kathgodam on a misty morning of 28^th September. There were 7 of us in our group and we managed to get a TATA Sumo @ rupees 2200. Our guide was waiting for us at Bageshwar. We picked him from Hotel Sidhdharth and headed for Saung. From Bageshswar we picked our rations also. The road after Bageshwar is in extremely bad condition. It took almost 2 hours to reach this 38 kms. We crossed over Varari on our way. This is the last locality where you can get rations for fortcoming days.

We reached Loharkhet at around 5 PM. There was a KVNM Bunglow over there and fortunately that was vacant. We got a six bedded room a@600. Our porters arrived there within an hour and they started the dinner preparation. We had a meeting with our guide Nandan for the trek plan.

Loharkhet KVMN Guest House and PWD Bunglow

Next morning we started at 7:30 AM to cross Dhakuri Khal. Though there were predefined trails but the high inclination made it the toughest part of this Trek for first day. But the journey was through the lush green forest more than made up for the difficulty.

On the way to Dhakuri

We reached Dhakuri at around 3:00 PM. Dhakuri is a picturesque plain land of hardly 15,000 square feet that boasts of 2 guest houses and a couple of small shops. We gave the concrete rooms a miss and pitched our tent at the small meadow to feel closest to nature.

Pitched Tents at Dhakuri

What makes Dhakuri even more special is that the snow-capped extents of the majestic Nanda-Kot, Chhanguch , Maiktoli, and part of Panwalidwar can be seen from here.

Chhanguch Seen from Dhakuri

Majestic Nanda-Kot at Sunset

A sense of total serenity and peace took over as the view of the snow-capped mountains mesmerized us. I think I knew then what sunset must look like at heaven. For one, I had never seen such a beautiful sunset ever.

Colors Of Mother Nature

Next morning we were off to Jatoli which was a 15 km of bumpy Trek. On our way we crossed the meeting point of Pindar Ganga and Sunderdhunga rivers.

From Dhakuri Way to Jatoli

Jatoli is a beautiful village with a population of around 500 people. This is also the last village on the way to Sunderdhunga Valley. AT Jatoli we stayed at Roop Sigh Danu’s Rest House. Roop Sigh Danu is a legendary person of Indian Trekking and Mounteneering history. In the mountains the daylight lasts till late hours in the evening. We had Tea/Omelet at a tea stall and had a leisurely stroll through the village. We had excellent Bengali food at night - Gobindobhog Rice and Ghee.

Jatoli Village

Next morning at around 7:30 we started for Kathaliya. The path became tougher as the trail became narrower and uneven. Time stood still for us as we walked in the silence through the ancient dense forest. In our quest to explore the virgin trail we forgot how many mountains we crossed, how many streams we passed or how many breaks we took. On the way we crossed Dhuniyadhong - a small plain which could house 5/6 for those to opted for an overnight stay. After Dhuniyadhong we had our lunch at the Sunderdhunga river bed.

Ancient Forest – Way to Kathaliya

A sense of relief set in when the Kathaliya bugiyal was finally seen. The only modest belonging that Kathaliya could boast of was a small hut that beloned to the famous Roop Singh Danu. Trying to explain the beauty and remoteness of Kathaliya through mere words would only belittle the purpose. One would feel adequately guarded as the mighty Himalayan high mountains watched over on three sides. As evening approached the temperature started falling beyond freezing point. We had an early dinner and went for sleep. Sleep was interspersed by periods of wakefulness due to extreme cold temperatures.

One And Only Shelter at Kathaliya

Next morning we started for Devikund. We could hardly see anything because of darkness. We used torches and headlamps to make our way through the narrow trails. Our destination was Devikund through Baluni Bugiyal. First 5 kms was hard strenuous almost 70 degree climb. Due to height some of our team members fell sick. We managed the situation with medicines and massage. We were taking rest at regular intervals. At around 6: AM the sun rose and we saw at the mighty Maiktoli Massif. We could never forget what we saw. My Nikon D80 captured the colors almost accurately.

Unforgettable View of Majestic Maiktoli Range

After a hard trek of 5 KM we came to vast plateau called Baluni Bugiyal. From here you could have a 270 degree view of the Himalayan ranges. From right to left they were the chain ranges of Baljuri, Chaanguch, Panwalidwar, Mailtoli, Mrigathuni, Tent Peak, Anand Peak, Tharkot, Vanuti, Durgakot. We had our breakfast here and headed towards Devikund. After walking 3 kms more we had a fair visitor - snow. Another 300 meters walk put us in full snow zone. My wife and I were not able to cross the last ridge and came back before 1 km of Devikund. Someday I would go there to the same route to cross Kanakata Pass (19,500 ft).

On The Way To Devikund

We came back to our shelter at Kathaliya at around 4 PM. We were very tired and exhausted. We had an early dinner and went to sleep. We were not able to sleep due to high altitude and extreme cold.

3^rd October : We slept till late morning and woke up at around 7 Am. Within an hour we headed for Maiktoli Base Camp. We crossed the Sundedhunga river over a crude man-made Bridge. The remoteness of this Valley made it more beautiful. Sunderdhunga means Valley of Beautiful Stones. The way up was a literally an uphill task as we had to climb steep slopes all along the way.

Awesome Sunderdhunga Valley

After 3 hours of tough climb we had our first glimpse of the Base Camp Area. From here the base camp was 3 kms more which took us an hour to reach. It was a wonderful feeling to actually touch upon the Base Camp Soil. A breath-taking view of the majestic Panwalidwar awaited us from here.

Maiktoli Base Camp

After spending some time here we strated our way back to Kathalia Hut.We had our dinner with delicious rice, dal and sabji. Tomorrow we would start our trek back.

On our Way Back

We followed the same path on our return Trek through Jatoli Dhakuri and Loharkhet halting at Jatoli and Dhakuri. As we were making our way back, I could not help but feel a strong longing for the snow-capped mountains that I was leaving behind. I knew that I would come back here again to lose myself in the lap of Mother Nature. I would come to hear the silence of the unknown deserted trails, to feel the blueness of the unpolluted sky, to bow myself to the greatness of the mountains. I would come to lose myself…forget my being for a few days as I become one with the pureness and beauty around me. I love you Himalays. I salute you from the deepest of my heart.

===============================================================

Itinerary :

Day 1 - Arrive Kathgodam. Drive 230 Kms to Loharkhet. Overnight stay.
Day 2 - Trek 12 kms to Dhakuri. Overnight stay.
Day 3 - Trek 15 Kms to Jatoli Village. Overnight stay.
Day 4 - Trek 12 Kms to Kathaliya. Overnight stay.
Day 5 - Trek 9 kms to DeviKund and Back to Kathaliya. Overnight stay.
Day 6 - Trek 7 Kms to Maiktoli Base Camp and back to Kathaliya.

Overnight stay.
Day 7 - Trek 12 kms to Jatoli Village. Overnight stay.
Day 8 - Trek to Dhakuri through Khati. Overnight stay.
Day 9 - Trek 12 kms down to Saung. Drive to Bageshwar.
Day 10 - Arrive kathgodam.
Day 11 - Reserve day.

Guide Contacts :

1) Mohan Singh Danu

Village - Wachham, PO – Khati

Toak - Lobgar, Dist – Bageshwar

Uttaranchal, Pin – 263679

Mob – 09410858855

2) Nandan Singh Danu

Wachham, Khati

Mob - 09410305799/0941081947

Document Owner : Subrata Dutta (subrat.dutt@gmail.com)

Gomukh–Tapovan Trek

2008-06-13T12:07:00.014+05:30

We Started on 22nd May 2008 for this route. This was my first Trek and i had learnt a lot from this Trek. The iteniery was as follows :

22nd May - Howrah – DLI kalka Mail 7:40 PM
23rd May - Arrived Ghaziabad at 8:00 PM. Board 2687 Dehradun Exp at 10:00 PM.
24th May - Arrived Haridwar at 5:00 AM. Get Bus for Uttarkashi. Arrive

Uttarkashi at 3:00 PM. Get the permit from DFO Office.

25th May - Started for Gangotri in Shared Sumo. Arrive Gangotri at 2:00 PM.

26th May - Started the trek a bit late. At around 9:45 PM. Camped at

Chirbasa. 11 Kms Trek. Took 5 Hrs.

27th May - Started at 6:30 AM towards Gomukh. Reached Bhojbasa Ashram at 8:30 PM. Took rest there and started for Gomukh. It took another 2 Hrs to reach Gomukh. We headed to the Gomukh Base and came back.

After this the toughest part of this Trek started. We had to cross the Gomukh Glacier diagonally and had to do a steep climb to reach Tapovan. Here we faced breathing problem. After a 3 hour Trek we reached Tapovan and the experience was awesome. It was a plane land at the base of Shivling peak. Here we stayed at Simlaibaba Ashram. At around 4:30 PM snowfall started and the nature became really marvelous. From here we could have a clear view to Vagirathi peaks.

28th May - Started at 8:00 AM towards Gomukh. It took 2 hrs to reach Gomukh and in another 1.5 Hrs we reached bhojbasa.

We had delicious khicri there started for Gangotri. It took almost 6 hrs to reach Gangotri. Overnight Stay at Gangotri.
29th May - Started at 7:00 AM towards Uttarkashi in hired Jeep. It took Rs. 1200. Reached Uttarkasi within 4 Hrs. Had lunch here and hired a Sumo upto Rishikesh. It took Rs. 1700 and at around 5 Hrs. From Rishikesh we took a taxi (Rs. 150) to reach Haridwar. We stayed at a hotel near haridwar Bus Stand. We visited Har Ki Pauri Ghat.

30th May- Next day morning we boarded a bus at 7:00 AM to Delhi. It took 6 hrs to reach Delhi. From here we caught Poorva Exp. At 4:25 PM.

31st March - Reached Howrah at 7:00 PM.

It was a hectic journey and as we were not able to manage more leave, we were forced to do it in this manner. Add at least 2 more days to make this trip easy. I will be glad to help you in this regard. You can reach me through mails.

Happy Trekking.

Majestic Shivling

2008-06-13T10:49:00.004+05:30

Awesome view of Shivling from the Tapovan Base. The morning sun falls on Shivling. It was a memorable experience for lifetime.

After a long Sleep

2008-06-13T10:36:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,

I am back again. I thoght that this blog might have obsolete but with my surprise, I found it

Go throgh this wonderful piece of code

2007-01-02T12:00:00.000+05:30

Keep ur scrapbook open and just paste this in ur address bar of the same browser and then hit enter. and check out the magic.. it's reallly coool.

javascript:R=0; x1=.1; y1=.05; x2=.25; y2=.24; x3=1.6; y3=.24; x4=300; y4=200; x5=300; y5=200; DI=document.images; DIL=DI.length; function A(){for(i=0; i

Don't Change the World

2006-12-05T14:24:00.000+05:30

Once upon a time, there was a king who ruled a prosperous country. One day, he went for a trip to some distant areas of his country. When he was back to his palace, he complained that his feet were very painful, because it was the first time that he went for such a long trip, and the road that he went through was very rough and stony. He then ordered his people to cover every road of the entire country with leather. Definitely, this would need thousands of cows' skin, and would cost a huge amount of money.

Then one of his wise servant dared himself to tell the king, "Why do you have to spend that unnecessary amount of money ? Why don't you just cut a little piece of leather to cover your feet ?"

The king was surprised, but he later agreed to his suggestion, to make a "shoe" for himself.

There is a valuable lesson of life in this story : To make this world a happy place to live, It is better to change ourself - our heart; and not the world.........

A small Truth, A big difference it can make.

2006-12-02T16:22:00.000+05:30

A small truth to make our Life 100% successful..........
If A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Is equal to 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

Then H+A+R+D+W+O+R+K = 8+1+18+4+23+15+18+11 = 98%
K+N+O+W+L+E+D+G+E = 11+14+15+23+12+5+4+7+5 = 96%
L+O+V+E=12+15+22+5=54%
L+U+C+K = 12+21+3+11 = 47%

(None of them makes 100%)
..............................
Then what makes 100%
Is it Money? ..... No!!!!!
Leadership? ...... NO!!!!
Every problem has a solution, only if we perhaps change our "ATTITUDE".
It is OUR ATTITUDE towards Life and Work that makes
OUR Life 100% Successful..

A+T+T+I+T+U+D+E = 1+20+20+9+20+21+4+5 = 100%

Does that make sense????

A Truth is a Truth

2006-12-02T13:25:00.000+05:30

Every morning in Africa, a gazelle awakens. He has only one thought on his mind: To be able to run faster than the fastest lion. If he cannot, then he will be eaten.

Every morning in Africa a lion awakens. He has only one thought on his mind: To be able to run faster than the slowest gazelle. If he cannot, he will die of hunger.

Whether you choose to be a gazelle or a lion is of no consequence. It is enough to know that with the rising of the sun, you must run. And you must run faster than you did yesterday or you will die.

“This is the race of life."

An award winning Photo

2006-12-02T12:36:00.000+05:30

After a long time

2006-11-30T00:15:00.000+05:30

Dear Friends,

It seems that this blog is dead. After a long time I am posting something. Anyway I will continue my posts afterwards. For the time being njot the photoes in the following link :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/subratadutta/

Take care all. bye

Speech prepared for Baroda Discussion Forum

2006-05-30T13:15:00.000+05:30

Friends,
I prepared a speech for the Baroda Discussion Forum organised by MSU engg college students and Junior Doctors Association(JDA). I tried to mention some points which need to addressed in the ongoing YOUTH FOR EQUALITY movement.

Regards
Subrata

Introduction :

During last one month there were lot of movemental activities. The anti reservation supporters united under the banner “YOUTH FOR EQUALITY”. All over India protests are going on and the govt. is in no mood for negotiation. Almost every part in India the protesting doctors, engineers and general public is brutally beaten up by the police. Govt doesn’t want to enter in any type of discussion. Now the very important question is this a war of castes. We have divided enough on basis of religion and caste. This is the most successful age old technique of “DIVIDE AND RULE”.

We admit that a large section of India is lower caste. We also have to admit that in society they are untouchable. Perhaps we cant feel it staying at cities but this is a ground reality. We have to accept it. To discuss on this reservation issue we have to think with a open mind. The problem in this case is the polarization is very sharp over here. Either you are for or against reservation. Let us discuss it in another manner.

Some questions to the politicians :

1. during the freedom movement against british threw were a large contribution
of this backward classes and u gave them 22.5% reservation in return. No
infrastructure, no better life, no better primary or secondary education,
only reservation, during last 60 years of independence it is proved that
reservation is only a stop gap to the original problem. If you really want
to pull the backward classes in the main stream you have to take
responsibility, you have to provide funds, scholarships, free basic, and
secondary education, better environment. But this is a tough job. So you
people trying to convince the backward classes that how
do u care for them.
2. In 1947 govt declared that this reservation will be for 10 years only, the
backward classes will enter into the main stream and all the discrimination
will be eliminated, but during last 60 years what our govt has done to
eliminate the discrimination.
3. Capitation fee, NRI quota, privatization of education are the root causes
for which the general students are throwen out of the education field, in
thiis scenario the govt is giving us reservation as gift to suppress the
root causes.
4. I have some statistics with me
• Do you know what percentage of the Indian population is OBC? Mandal puts
it at 52 per cent, the National Sample Survey Organisation (NSSO) at 32 per
cent, the National Family and Health Survey at 29.8 per cent, which is the
correct figure?
• A study done by the IITs themselves shows that 50 per cent of the IIT seats
for the SCs and STs remain vacant, and for the remaining 50 per cent, 25 per
cent are the candidates who even after six years fail to get their degrees.
So, clearly, in their case, reservations are not working
• Fifty years after the reservations were made, statistics show, according to
The Hindustan Times, that overall in India, only 16 per cent of the places
in higher education are occupied by SCs and STs. The quota is 22.5 per cent,
which means that only two-thirds of the quota is occupied. One-third is
going waste, it is being denied to other people.
• Let me quote to you Jawaharlal Nehru, On the 27th of June 1961 wrote to the
Chief Ministers of the day as follows: I dislike any kind of reservations.
If we go in for any kind of reservations on communal and caste basis, we
will swamp the bright and able people and remain second-rate or third-rate.
The moment we encourage the second-rate, we are lost. And then he adds
pointedly: This way lies not only folly, but also disaster

• Na jaat par na paat par mohar lagegi haath par - Indira Gandhi, 1980

• Our goal today must be a casteless society. Let us be very clear about that -
Rajiv Gandhi, 1990

Some questions to the Protestors :

1. Whenever we are protesting against reservation, we should think of a better
alternative to pull the backward classes, then only our protest will be
justified. Our anger is not for some particular caste, it is for the
government which is creating division among us. Let us be very clear about
that.
2. we are often considering the term MERIT. Merit is less dependent on genes
and more dependent on environment, expectations and the socio economic
conditions. So when we are asking for equality let us ask for the minimum
educational environment for the backward classes also. Again I want to
mention that this is not a war against backward classes, this is a ware
against evil increased reservation.
3. We are against reservation because this suppresses MERIT. In our society
already some type of reservation is being practiced in name of capitation
fees, NRI quotas. Those who have enough money, they can buy degrees, we have
to address this also, because in this case also a meritorious student is
neglected.
4. Let us address the issue from another angle also. We all know friends India
is a brain supplying country to the world.
• 40% of NASA scientists are Indians
• 43.5% Microsoft Employees are Indian
• Maximum top bosses and higher management executives of Fortune500 companies
are Indians

By this figures we can easily say we are on top of knowledge sector.
This is the only reason today India is one of the largest outsourcing hub. I can
recall one statement of American president George W Bush to the school
students of America, “study maths or your job will taken up by the
Indians” . I have only one question, President Bush are u afraid of our wit.

5. The existing education system itself has flaws, it is designed to create
Discrimination. Let us demand for a scientific education system which will
Be free dirty political games. Let us unite not divide.

In our country 50% people are starving, unemployment, child labour, corruption is everywhere. We are heading towards nowhere. In this scenario this reservation issue is a good political trumph card for government and we all saw that other political parties are also kept mum as this is sensitive issue, this can highly affect the vote bank,

So friends Let us move against all the political polarization of educational institues, let us free education from evil politicians, let us demand for quality and minimum cost education as education is our birth right in a independent country, let us denmand for remove all type of discripencies in education.

The coming tomorrow is ours friend. The red sun of dawn is giving that indication to us. Let us fight together and make India a better India for all regardless of caste and religion.

Thank you all.
INQUILAB JINDABAD. JAI HIND.

At Mount Abu with Sudip and Manoj

2006-05-28T18:11:00.000+05:30

Friends, We must know what we want

2006-05-26T19:22:00.000+05:30

We observed a lot of agitation on reservation issues. Politicians are in favor of it, and the general public is opposing it. Wheather reservation is needed or not that is the main question. And we must try to find out the answer.

i can covey u my personal opinion with some valid logic(the logic is valid to me, if u can break it i will be the most happy person).

1) Personally I feel that there should be no reservation in higher education at any cost because it hapers the excellence of education.

2) If any type of reservation is needed then the basis should be economic backwardness not on Religion or caste. Believe me , these politicians loves own seat and pockets, they have no sympathy to general or backward classes.

3) Reservation is only a superficial coating to hide the real injury. IF the politicians of india have had minimum sympathy to backward classes, they might have taken responsibility to uplift them by prividing funds, scholarships, special schools etc.

I have some questions friend.

1) Does it benefit the really needy or the really greedy?

2) Does current reservation policy have any scientific basis?

3) Will you allow 1931 census to determine reservations in 2006?

4) Did it work in last 50 years?

Till yesterday government said:
Help should be given on economic considerations and not caste - Jawaharlal Nehru, 1961
Na jaat par na paat par mohar lagegi haath par - Indira Gandhi, 1980
Our goal today must be a casteless society. Let us be very clear about that - Rajiv Gandhi, 1990

Today Arjun Singh, member of the same government goes against their own ideology. Why???????

Some good links on anti reservation protest

2006-05-26T19:15:00.000+05:30

Arjun singh’s interview with Karan Thapar in CNN IBN yesterday … Arjun Singh couldn’t give a proper answer for even a single question…
Arjun singh's interview on CNN IBN
http://www.ibnlive.com/news/decision-on-quota-is-final-the-chapter-is-closed/11063-4.html

Reservations: The economic factor
http://www.rediff.com/news/2006/may/10rajeev.htm

OBC students protest divide and rule http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/1539389.cms

write to the prime minister
http://pmindia.nic.in/write.htm

A Key of Success

2006-05-03T21:53:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,
I took this picture at my room at night with some special effects provided in my digital camera(Canon Powershot A520). I hope u guys will this.

2006-05-03T21:36:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,
Just go through the lyrics of Sunshine by John Denver. This song appears on twenty-one albums, and was first released on the poems, prayers and promises album.

Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy
Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry
Sunshine on the water looks so lovely
Sunshine almost always makes me high

If I had a day that I could give you
I’d give to you a day just like today
If I had a song that I could sing for you
I’d sing a song to make you feel this way

Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy
Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry
Sunshine on the water looks so lovely
Sunshine almost always makes me high

If I had a tale that I could tell you
I’d tell a tale sure to make you smile
If I had a wish that I could wish for you
I’d make a wish for sunshine all the while

Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy
Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry
Sunshine on the water looks so lovely
Sunshine almost always makes me high
Sunshine almost all the time makes me high
Sunshine almost always

Nobel Lecture by Harold Pinter

2006-05-03T21:17:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,
I got the speech of Harold Pinter. I found it quite interesting. If anyone interested find the total speech at http://nobelprize.org/literature/laureates/2005/pinter-lecture-e.html

Here is some part of that:

Harold Pinter Nobel Lecture
Art, Truth & Politics

In 1958 I wrote the following:

'There are no hard distinctions between what is real and what is unreal, nor between what is true and what is false. A thing is not necessarily either true or false; it can be both true and false.'

I believe that these assertions still make sense and do still apply to the exploration of reality through art. So as a writer I stand by them but as a citizen I cannot. As a citizen I must ask: What is true? What is false?
.................

2006-05-03T21:01:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,
Last January 2006 10 of our collage mates went to Pench National Park. There we stayed for 2 days in a forwst bunglow in dense forest. No mobile signals, no tension, we felt the sound of falling leaves. A real sense of Sound of Silance. At night we have a campfire. Excellent experience.

At Gurushikhar, Mount Abu

2006-05-03T20:53:00.000+05:30

Introduction

2006-05-03T20:15:00.000+05:30

Hi Friends,
This is my personal blog. I am a person interested in travelling, photography, politics, social service, human psychology and human relations. I want to use this blog in something creative. This is my first post. I will add more in coming days.